Clamping Tools

 

To maintain the good quality of a bar clamp in the long-term, proper care is essential. 

The function of a screw clamp is based on the friction and tilting between rail and sliding arm. It is important, therefore, that the rail is always kept free of grease, oil or dried glue. Particularly critical on the rail are waxes and release agents containing silicone. Such residues must be removed as quickly as possible using solvents, wire brushes or sandpaper. Both the spindle and the pressure plate joint should be lubricated regularly with a little oil. Spray oil is especially suitable for this purpose. In this way, the smooth running of the screw clamp is maintained for a long time with optimum clamping force.

If there is a grub screw on a malleable cast iron screw clamp, which prevents the sliding arm from slipping through, it can be readjusted by a quarter turn when the support starts to diminish. With all-steel screw clamps, attention should be paid to any shine forming on the rail, as this can lead to slipping of the sliding yoke. If shiny spots are visible, they can be roughened on both sides with emery cloth in grain size 100 to ensure safe working again.

 

There are several ways to identify a clamp. The most accurate way is by the product part number. Part numbers can be found on the rail, operating jaw, and the handle, depending on the style of clamp. If the part number is worn off due to use, the end user can take pictures of the whole clamp, take specific measurements of the opening capacity and throat depth (from the center of the spindle to the nearest edge of the rail) and provide these to BESSEY Tools to help identify the clamp.
 

 

 

Several families of BESSEY clamps have a handle that can be added or removed more easily for service. Its construction is such that you can thread it through the forged arm and then insert it into the pad. The cavity into which the spindle ball fits may also include a small snap-ring inside that engages around the spindle ball and holds it in place. If the spindle is loosened all the way out then, the pressure of the spindle rotation forces the pad off the spindle, and they separate. The solution is to reinsert the spindle through the arm and back into the pad and then to allow some extra thread to show. Give the handle tip a tap with a mallet and it should re-insert. The secret to preventing separation is to always allow some thread to be available for tightening and loosening.

The most frequent cause is environmental (overspray, accumulated oils, or dust on the rail etc).

Please, lightly rub the rail down with a light steel wool and some mineral spirits (like Varsol), allow it sit for a few seconds then, run the sliding arm up and down the rail a few times before wiping down with a clean moist cloth. Finally, tighten the clamp up to what you feel is near capacity. This removes residues that might have adhered to the clamp in the shop (varnishes, finishes, paints, hand grease, dust etc). Quite often this simple exercise is successful in returning a clamp to top working condition.  

• Hold clamp as shown. (fig 1)
• Strike/tap the steel rail down hard on a solid surface.
• Repeat if required (may take progressively harder taps to loosen the sliding arm).

 

The "parallel" description used is a nominal representation of what the clamp should accomplish while in use. The BESSEY K BODY parallel clamp should normally "toe in" a minimal amount at the end of the jaw face when at rest or under minimal pressure. It is not a product that is calibrated to rest at a 90 degree angle at all times. Under pressure, the intent is that the jaws will align to parallel with clamping force aligned across the breadth of the jaw face when clamped on a piece of wood or cabinet face etc. At rest, the "toe in" feature may be 1-2 degrees. This is less evident on the sliding jaw as there are moving pieces but is clearly evident on the fixed jaw. By contrast, the fixed jaw should not "toe out" when at rest.

Yes. Please follow the instructions below:

• Grind off the dimples on the end of the rail.
• Drill a 16.1mm diameter hole 8 mm from the end, centered across the width of the rail. 
• Chamfer the hole on both sides of the rail at 45°.

NOTE: By adding the new rail end clip to an older K-Body clamp, the clamping capacity will decrease by approx. 44mm (1-3/4”). 

There are several ways to prevent glue from dripping onto the rail of your clamps.

The first, do not over glue! Many glues only require a thin layer to adhere correctly. Placing painters tape on the rail will prevent any glue from sticking. A light coat of beeswax or common paste wax on the rail will also prevent any glue from sticking to the clamp rail.

Please contact the retailer where you purchased your clamps from with proof of payment for the replacement parts. If they do not carry the parts at their retail location (physical store or online retailer) please contact info@besseytools.com. Please include in the contact form the exact part number(s) of the clamp(s) that is missing pads and photos of clamp and proof of purchase. 

The VAS-23+2K has a 2K handle and pulls equally on both ends of the strap, eliminating the chance of skewing your work piece.

 

How to use: 

• Turn the central handle counter-clockwise to take tension off the strap then pull the strap out to the required amount.  
• Place pivoting heads of strap accessories in place and tighten with the small roll up handle to take up the slack.
• For final tightening turn the BESSEY branded handle clockwise. There are no full printed instructions that come with the clamp. 

View one or both YouTube videos below for additional assistance:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2mYIBiQVCM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZBci3bpQqA

The VAS400 has a 2-component handle with two red levers that,

• when tight, will hold the strap.
• when loose, will allow the strap to be pulled.

How to use:

• Step one is to turn the 2-component handle fully clockwise.
• Make sure the red lever on the short end of the strap is engaged and tight.
• Loosen the red lever on the end with more strap and pull the strap out as needed.
• Give yourself enough strap to extend around your work piece.
• Set the angle pieces at the corners of your workpiece.
• Re-set the lever you loosened.
• Release the lever on the short end of the strap.
• Pull the strap to take up the slack around your work piece.
• Re-set the lever.
• Tighten the handle so that it removes the last bit of slack and tightens.

Follow the suggestion below:

If still wet – can be wiped off with a rag dipped in acetone or mineral spirits.
o    Once hardened these glues cannot be removed by any solvents.
Removal process:
o    Soften by wrapping with rags soaked with hot water or use steam.
o    Use care to prevent injury when using steam or extremely hot water.
o    Once softened use a plastic scraper to remove.
The best way to address the issue of glue on the rail is to try and prevent it from happening at all. A light coat of beeswax on the rail or, by using tape on the rail prior to glue up.

Follow the suggestion below:

Removal process:
o   These types of glue can be softened by soaking with a mixture of equal parts Water, Vinegar and Acetone – this can be achieved by immersion or wrapping with a rag soaked with the mixture.
o   Once softened use a plastic scraper to remove.
The best way to address the issue of glue on the rail is to try and prevent it from happening at all. A light coat of beeswax or common paste wax on the rail or, by using tape on the rail prior to glue up.